Hydration vs. Protein: Simplifying the Balance for Healthy Curls

If you spend any time in the curl community, you know the hydration vs. protein conversation is everywhere. And while it is important to understand, I don't think it needs to completely consume your curl care routine.

So let’s break it down, simplify it, and help you figure out what your hair actually needs—without the overwhelm.

What is Hydration?

Hydration is simply water. In hair products, hydration shows up through humectants—ingredients that attract water into the hair. (I actually wrote a whole blog about this if you want a deeper dive: [Dew Point: Your Invisible Styling Product].)

Hydration is essential for keeping curls soft, flexible, and low frizz.

What is Protein?

Protein is meant to strengthen the hair. You'll see it listed as ingredients like keratin, wheat, soy, collagen, and amino acids in hair products.

Protein treatments help:

• Strengthen weakened hair bonds

• Reinforce the cuticle layer

• Prevent further breakage (although they cannot reverse existing damage)

Finding Your Personal Balance

Everyone needs some hydration and some protein—but how much of each you need depends on your unique hair type and lifestyle. Here’s how to figure it out:

When You Might Need More Hydration

• Your hair has a hard time absorbing water (this often feels like your hair stays dry even right after conditioning).

• Your hair feels wiry, crispy, or rough.

• You live in a low humidity area and your hair struggles to hold your style or have bounce.

Tip: If you find yourself not enjoying your hair during dry seasons or you live in a climate with low humidity, utilize deep conditioners to help keep your hair boosted with hydration. If this is you and your climate has a lot of humidity, try using low viscosity products with light-medium hold but not high hold.

When You Might Need More Protein

• Your hair is color-treated, lightened, heat-damaged, or naturally brittle.

• You notice excessive breakage (not shedding—actual broken strands).

• Your curls feel mushy, overly soft, or lack bounce and strength.

Tip: Use protein treatments according to directions and don't layer multiple heavy protein products in the same wash day. Overloading with protein can lead to its own issues.

Special Note: Low Porosity Hair and Protein

If you have low porosity hair, be cautious with protein-rich products.

Why?Low porosity hair naturally has a tightly packed cuticle layer, making it harder for water to enter. If you use too much protein (which further strengthens that cuticle), you can make it even harder for your hair to absorb water. This can lead to dehydration, brittleness, and eventually, breakage.

For Low Porosity Hair: Focus more on hydration and strong humectants that can help gently open the cuticle for water absorption.

Quick Recap

If Your Hair Feels...	You Might Need More...
Dry, rough, wiry	Hydration
Limp, overly soft, breaking	Protein
Resistant to water	Hydration (especially for low porosity)
Weak, damaged, colored	Protein

Final Thoughts

The hydration vs. protein conversation is important, but it doesn’t have to rule your life. Listen to your hair. Pay attention to how it feels, behaves, and reacts to products and weather. Adjust as needed, but don’t stress—hair needs change naturally over time.

And remember: your curl routine should work for you—not the other way around.